“Magna Frisia: Fieldnotes from the Water’s Edge”

Part Three: Skûtsjesilen, Suspicion, and the Art of Getting Lost October 2016. The invitation drifted in on an October tide, from Ulbe Zwaga himself, a man whose handshake carries the weight of Frisian tides and whose conditions are as non-negotiable as the North Sea. The catch? I’d have to join the Skûtsjesilen-a Frisian regatta, where…